Valpolicella - Ripasso - La Tonega - Colle Cerè

The Valpolicella Ripasso DOC La Tonega by Colle Cerè is the middle wine from a winery that does things seriously — the same estate that produces the 2020 Classico Amarone with 60 months in Slavonian oak barrels and 16.5% natural alcohol. Seeing Colle Cerè apply the same production rigour to the Ripasso confirms a coherent vision from the entry level to the top of the range.

"La Tonega" — a Veronese toponym likely indicating a specific zone or vineyard parcel near the winery — carries the territorial roots of this wine in its name. The blend is classic and balanced: Corvina 50% for fruit and freshness, Corvinone 40% for structure and tannic complexity, Rondinella 10% for floral notes and acidity — the same proportions as Colle Cerè's Amarone, giving the Ripasso an immediate and recognisable stylistic coherence within the range.

The Ripasso is produced using the traditional Veronese method: the base Valpolicella of Corvinone, Corvina and Rondinella is refermented on the still-fresh, rich pomace of the freshly pressed Amarone, absorbing additional structure, tannins and an aromatic concentration that brings it close to the great dried-grape wine. Ageing then takes place for 24 months in oak barrels — a period significantly above the Ripasso DOC minimum and comparable to that of many small-producer Amarones — giving the wine a tannic roundness, aromatic complexity and structure that allow it to evolve positively in bottle for years. Four months of bottle ageing follow before release.

On the nose it is rich and enveloping: black cherry jam, blackberry, plum, cacao, warm spice, tobacco, dried violet, a well-integrated vanilla and oak note and a balsamic undercurrent of Veronese herbs. On the palate it is full and structured for its type — 14.5% well integrated, present but already polished tannins from the 24 months in barrel, a harmonious glyceric sweetness that envelops the palate, a fresh acidity that balances the structure and guarantees longevity, and a long persistent finish with notes of concentrated red fruit, spice and integrated oak. Serve at 17°C. A serious Ripasso that deserves a few years in the cellar or at least an hour of decanting before drinking.

At €20 for a Ripasso with 24 months in oak barrels from the same estate as a quality Amarone, this is one of the most intelligent purchases in the mid-range of the catalogue.